Updates to Lazy Marseillan
...Latest update: 11 August 2016 - next update mid August
The balade vigneronne wine walk in Marseillan will not take place in 2016. There may be some combined heritage walks and tastings in July and August. Rendezvous at the Richemer winery on the quays for a cellar
tour, walk through the vineyards and trip to Grand Bleu oyster farm and a wine
and seafood tasting. Wine walks from the sister winery in Agde meet at the Richemer winery on bd Soleil, take in vineyards along the river Herault and Canal du Midi. Booking essential 06 71 23 16 70. The guide can also tailor the walk to themes, including the story of the vines in wartime. The Taste of Marseillan tour no longer includes the
Kithau: The wake park has expanded with a range of watersports, from waterskis for 3 year olds, to canoeing. And there is a great tapas bar buvette by the waterfront.
Many more oyster sheds now offer lunch and even evening meals. See new listings below for page 267.
L'Etoile de Thau. Marseillan port's sightseeing boat trips are back. 1 hour excursion to the oyster parks on the lagoon. €8 adults, €5 children. Daily departures from the restarant-lined quayside. Fishing trips Monday and Wednesday mornings at €10/€6. Fishing rod hire €3. Info and booking on 06 18 97 40 18.
New mini-golf and bouncy castle park behind the go-cart track and the fairground, with a post Jack Sparrow style theme. Admission to either the inflatables and trampoline zone or to the crazy golf, or a combined ticket.
Kry's Club has changed hands. For a year it became a swingers club and sauna (Called Oops - also now closed) Latest nightclub for bopping til dawn is EG Club rue de l'Eden Tel 07 87 53 79 45.
Une Bouteille a la Mer rue Achille Maffre de Baugé. Tel: 06 47 73 69 20 1 [B2]
Latest venue from the convivial pharmacist (and occasional singing sensation!) Guillaume Terrisse is his stylish wine bar in what he has turned into a rather buzzing little side street linking the two main squares. tapas and nibbles rather than meals served here, though a occasional theme evening (paella anyone?) does mean food too, but essentially this is a place for a pre or post dinner drink with friends. A hit with the locals since Day One. Now that the Boulevard has opened a second terrace with tables facing the wine bar, diners mingle with tipplers in conviviality.
La Fabrique à Goût-Thé 1 rue Achille Maffre de Baugé 1 [B3]
First of the new establishments in the new foodie-corner of the village was this cafe/tea room that shrewdly filled the gap left by the closure of the Chocolatée by the roundabout. Now that this corner opposite the Mairie has had its superb facelift (the fabulous renovations of the walls between the Boulevard and the place Carnot) a teeny tiny cafe for excellent hot chocolate, full-flavoured coffee and lots of cakes and open for elevenses and afternoon tea.
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Le Belem quai Antonin Gros. Tel: 04 67 26 19 96 3 [B3]
At last, a basic bar between the Soleil and Luna restaurants on the quays. Somewhere to sit and nurse a drink in the afternoon and evening. An experienced team from the classic village bars also offer a great plat du jour and basic lunch deal similar to that served at the Relax. So have a salad or daily special hot dish and pay around €10.
Sony et JoJo biker's bar is long gone. Now the Color Cafe
Montpellier is no longer the regional capital of Languedoc. Not is Languedoc a region any more. See page 11 above.
Pages 244 and 252
Winter fresh food market at Marseillan Plage. In the car park by the summer discos and funfair, find fresh fruit and veg from local market gardeners and freshly shipped from north Africa. Great quality and excellent value. Olives, cheeses and other tasty treats too in this overspill from the main fleamarket next door. 4 [A1]. Don’t forget the summer farmers' fruit & produce stall next to the pizza stand at 159 route de Marseillan Plage (continuation of av Chassefiere beach road out of the village centre) for mouthwatering locally grown melons, watermelon, onions, garlic and tomatos in season - from June-ish.
The legendary weekend Flea Market in Marseillan Plage has now moved from its long held site by the Richemer winery. Instead it is the other side of the fairground, at the old Ferme Enchantee site behind the go-cart track. Follow other shoppers and you'll be fine
Guinguette Gourmande is a weekly Wednesday night food and drinks market and tasting session in July and August. Served with live music during July and August place Carnot 1 [B2] from 7-11.30pm
Le Fournil de Leo 7 av Victor Hugo Tel: 04 48 08 78 09 1 [B3]
Latest artisanal boulangerie-patisserie is just along from the Jardins de Thau fruit shop. Whole meal and wholegrain crusty loaves.
O P'tit Primeur fruit and veg shop next to the butchers by the church. open daily and Sunday morning. place Guillault 1 [B3]
La Marseillanerie: Now Closed - another estate agent takes its place!
(Duo d'Ateliers) has now closed. In its place is: Tartines de Juliana 10 bd Lamartine Tel: 07 82 23 51 94 1 [B3] teashop with craft sessions and community get-togethers. Learn to knit and enjoy tutti frutti ice cream at the same time.
(Tresor du Pirate) Now renamed Le Magasin and under the original management. Specialising in the owner's stylish art and craftwork, brilliant metal and wood mirrors, chandeliers and bespoke furniture. Well worth a visit.
(Cathy) Alas, this photography shop, appreciated for the evocative black and white portraits adorning the facade, has ceased trading over the counter. I guess the days of retail sales for Kodachrome and Ilford film are long gone in an age of 10 megapixel telephones. The photographer's work continues, but the shop is no more.
ALDI The discount retailer has a branch on the trading estate just along the road from Carrefour Market. 15 Avenue de l'Industrie.
Dry Cleaning. At long last a depot pressing (dry cleaning drop-off) in the Village. Thau Boots 5 rue Emile Zola. Tel 05 67 21 14 61
Saveur et Bio 6 Place Carnot Tel: 06 09 76 23 12 www.saveuretbio.fr 1 [B2]
Next to La Table d'Emilie, find organic and locally sourced food, wine and even whisky in this classy new grocers shop.
La Fabrique à Goût-Thé 1 Rue Achille Maffre de Baugé 1 [B3] New cake shop and tea room (see above p137)
Hyppo 2 Thau 20 bd Bertouy 06 19 37 32 54 2 [A2] The newest oyster counter is a couple of streets back from the waterfront, close to the quayside restaurants.
[Brocante] Coin du Petit Bonheur 53 bd pasteur 2 [A1]
As well as the junk shop along bd Bertouy, now this latest rummagerie around the cornr is worth a vist. Open all day (even lunchtimes) Tue-Sat
Le Chateau du Port under the longest serving of the new managements since the Chicheportiche era. Superb chef Patrick in the kitchen flourishes classy takes on lobster, lamb, frogs legs and noble fish. Family crew front of house headed by Jasmine. Service in summer was initially unhurried, but the food, always delicious. Menus are 29 or 39 In peak summer a fortnightly programme of late Friday evening concerts of jazz, swing or classy chanson on the quayside or in the dining room, depending on the weather and any public events in the port. Closed Wednesdays. Service is much sharper in 2016 and food simply superb.
(Chez Philippe) All change once again at this iconic restaurant, with the family team that had run the place so well over recent years finally bowing out and handing the reins to new owners Alain and Sonia this summer.
(Cote Sud has closed) l'Escale is current new name for the former Brasserie Cote Sud in 2014's round of musical chairs. The Grosso family (founders of the original brasserie on the site) sold the place some years ago and, having established and sold the upmarket village tea room Chocolatee by the theatre roundabout, returned to their original base on the quays. No set menu, so great for those who just fancy a one course meal. Pasta with seafood, seafood without pasta, daily specials. Pay in the teens for your chosen dish and have a nice wine with it and perhaps delay your departure over a dessert. I discovered the place the lunchtime after the election night before when a fragile but euphoric Mayoral party celebrated at the next table with a menu they could trust! Out of season, open mainly extended lunch hours rather than evenings
(La Luna) Under new management since the book was published. Friendly staff and a refreshed menu. Inpressed at seeing a whole grilled bream on the €15 lunch menu, with rich gazpacho and the inevitable tiramisu verrine. Signature dishes on the upgrade menu include a tea-infused pannacotta with safron pear. Usual pizza/pasta selection remains.
(La Taverne du Port) The new terrace now wrapped around the building by the waterfront, has a seafood bar with illustrated panels by various local artists including Jean-Claude Chabrol. A small open-air wine-bar area is perfect for enjoying a glass of wine, perhaps a modest slate plate of seafood, cheeses or Bruno's home-cured jambon de poisson (fine shavings of air- dried and salted tuna or swordfish), whilst checking on your emails in the wifi zone. Spring 2013: new look menus now €20 at lunchtime and well over €30 in the evenings. the carte itself takes the form of a weekly or monthly newspaper with the extensive wine list and exhaustive selection of rums and whiskies filling many pages, a what's on guide for every town from Florensac to Agde, Pezenas to Sete. Normandy now shares the cheeseboard with Languedoc and Auvergne and a Livarot may find itself within a salad or Camembert in the oven.
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21 Quai S'Port 21 quai de la Résistance. 2 [B2] 04 30 17 48 31 email@example.com
New regime at the steak and sport bar on the rive Droit. We'll be trying it out very soon. Meanwhile, here was our last take on the original establishment: Despite the ubiquitous apo'strophic'al title. This little sports bar, quayside cafe, next door to the Grange aux Mouettes, on the quiet side of the port, has a dinky deck with cafe tables, sailboards and an abundance of ardoise menu boards offering a range of draught Belgian and northern beers, local wines and slate-platter lunches. Inside is comfy contemporary sport & cocktail bar with big screens, smart chairs and big leather sofas. Staff cheery and helpful, coffee top quality (no bitter aftertaste - and possibly the best espresso this sideof Ventimiglia), and food platters (on mock slate) have a serious meat bias - as a contrast to the seafood nature of neighbouring establishments. Burgers range from classics to Italianate confections blending pesto and tomato with the quality chopped beef. Main courses priced in the teens, but midweek lunch deal of choice is a fine piece du boucher with frites, sauce, dessert du jour and coffee at 14€90. Non meat eaters can choose from either a cheeseboard or the freshest of above average Salades Nicoises. If eating a la carte, be prepared to top up your 20-euro note collection before leaving home. Early evening happy hours with those excellent Leffe beers a la pression are excellent value.
Brascucade Azais: The original Mussels & sardine barbecue is no more, as the Azais family bows out of the lunchtime trade. However, the smokey seafood special continues on the oyster road at Coqui Thau. From Summer 2013, the traditional lunchtime outdoor grill at the oyster sheds is the Brasucade des Mazets. June and September on Tuesday and Saturday, July-August Tuesday and Thursday. €15. As ever, booking is essential. Coqui Thau, 30 chemin des Parcs, Les Mazets. Tel: 04 67 77 68 58. firstname.lastname@example.org
There is now an upmarket seafood barbecue supper at Le St Barth, farmers of the prestigious Tarbouriech oysters, (they use a system of pulleys to emulate tides, exposing oysters to sunlight, shade, depths and shallows). Budget €40 in peak summer for the Fri-Sun evening meals. Etablissement Tarbouriech, lieu dit Montpenedre. Tel: 06 10 79 49 85 www.lestbarth.com
La Cabane 1 chemin de l'Etang Tel: 06 11 17 23 50. 2 [B1] wasthe first of a new trend of waterfront oystershacks by the plagette Tabarka. Just 3 items on the menu: oysters gratinees, traditional bucket of mussels and the celebrated brasucade. Have a glass of white wine and a platye of mussels and change from €10. A fast growing fanbase for the simple things in life.
Chez Titine, 3 chemin de l'Etang Tel: 06 85 42 72 39 www.cheztitin.com 2 [B1] Another oyster shed terrace, with its own loyal punters who go for a late of oysters and mussels by the plagette with a glass of wine at around €6. The seafood here won a medal at the 2016 Paris agricultural show.
(Le Boulevard) Off season, closes Mondays. UPDATE After almost two years of building works, the Boulevard finally reopened summer 2014. A smart new decor, classy lighting and (great relief to all regular punters) the fireplace is back for Bernard to prepare his legendary grilled steaks and brochettes over an open flame. Equally pristine tables on the cobbles outside. The space may be new, but the classic menu is back, albeit with a few canny tweaks. The sole fish dish on the old menu (roasted cod) has been replaced by bream/bass fillets on the top price menu. Otherwise, those steaks, brochettes and grilled seafood stalwarts are as popular as ever. Menus from 13.50 - 22.50. The baked camembert is back, a delicious northern style herring with warm potato salad has the lip-smack factor. Little logos added to the old-style menu show which dishes are totally home made and there are even healthy-eating options. Best of all, Bernard still rules the room, and the lovely Agnes is now in the kitchen with a new gamine hairdo. New phone number 04 67 00 43 20. New for the off-season: a programme of live jazz and even an occasional fashion show. Even newer for 2016 is the buzzing second terrace at the back of the restaurants opposite the new wine bar
(Chocolatee - now closed) Ristorante Lorenzo is a smart new pasta parlour that has taken over the former Chocolatee
tea rooms by the theatre roundabout. Tables outside are still the place
to ensure that no one ventures from village to port without being
properly checked out. Pasta is not a cheap option here- you can budget around 30 euros per person for your meal, with the pasta dishes hovering between 14 and 19 euros a plate. On the other hand, it is truly beautiful., fine in texture, zingy in flavour and filled with choice local ingredients. Other Mediterranean dishes are sneaking onto the menu. Good desserts and an unexpected zabaglione with the cafe gourmande was a highlight.
Panam 11 av Chassefiere 1 [B3] 09 50 84 26 27 closed Friday lunchtimes
Sancho (now re-opened under new management)
3bis rue Gl de Gaulle 1 [B2] 04 67 01 61 33 Now moved around the corner to rue Vedel (see above)
Ask about the monthly jazz evenings, closed to casual walk-in guests, early booking essential. Regular menu prices (best pizza in town) and excellent music.
14 bd Lamartine 1 [B3] 07 88 57 20 02
Burgers, hot dogs on the "California" menu, pizza and panini on the"Italia" list at the latest incarnation of this snack bar. Now with regular tables and chairs on the pavement along the street from Juliana,
Tartines de Juliana
10 bd Lamartine Tel: 07 82 23 51 94 1 [B3]
Lovely little teashop, snackerie and ice cream parlous with home made breakfasts a speciality. Love the line of panama hats strung out in summer to protect guests from midday sun.
Iles et The Une Fois
20 bd Lamartine 1 [B3] 06 64 43 38 99
Beachbar style, kerbside. This bamboo and tropical decor between the duo d'Ateliers and the Marine Bar, offers a saladerie as the healthy option to fast food on the boulevard. But don't confuse healthy or salad with boring. Flavoursome, imaginative and fresh are the adjectives to play with, and that is down to the quality of the nouns on the menu. Great ingredients and a food selection entirely dependent on the what can be found in the market rather than the freezer. Salads during week one included a cheesey affair, featuring grilled St Marcelin, potato gratin, sliced pear and wallnuts, a chicken satay balinese special, the Mexican option with chicken and guacamole wraps and a more traditional platter with duck, figs and foie gras amongst the leaves and drizzled dressings. Doorstep slices of home-made fluffy quiches and Jamaican jerk chicken burgers amongst the hot dishes of the day. Other treats have included stews from Auvergne and the Indian Ocean outpost of La Reunion, a quiche tatin and vegetraian risotto. Good choice of main course and desserts - on our day sweets included a chocolate and caramel creation worth the sale of your soul. Budget 14-18 euros for the supersize mains. Unexpectedly - in a street of daytime dining - this place is open evenings too. Do not wrestle with the dictionary for the meaning of "Islands and Tea One Time" - spoken aloud it is a homonym for the french storyteller's opening gambit Once Upon a Time. Trust me, it looks like a Happy Ever After. No set lunch menu in 2016.
Kithau (see page 60) The waterfront clubhouse of the wakepark, kite surf and waterski centre in Parc Tabarka has a restaurant/buvette serving crepes and tapas, dish of the day, salads, snacks and local seafood and fruit platters on the edge of the lagoon.
Autour 2 Thau 12 bd Gambetta Tel 06 69 77 06 63 1 [B2]
The local italian heritage that built Sete is celebrated through this pizza, lasagne and traditional tielles takeaway in an unlikely residential location behind the place Republique. M. Dautel also sells his pies at the various gourmet and gourmande food festivals in the village and on the quayside in summer.
La Grange aux Mouettes 21 Bis quai de la Résistance. 2 [B2] 04 67 98 22 87
Ice cream parlour and terrace by Noilly Prat on the quiet side of the port, now has lovely faded wood style cafe tables inn a far more permanent looking deck. Great for waiting for your Atouvents boat to come in. Provencal type souvenir shop and superior ice creams.
43 av de la Méditerranée 4 [A2] 04 67 77 62 69
Tres bonzer rapport qualite prix pour le tucker when you swap Bonjour for G'day, and enjoy an aussie style barbecue lunch or dinner, with a dash of Languedoc seafood and splash of local wine (or Fosters) on the side. Good for families on a budget since grown-up menus start at €10 and €16 and kids meals are €7. There is still a €52 challenging 900g red meat plate, that'd be right. Open year round.
Color Café 41 av de la Méditerranée 4 [A2] 06 26 57 48 04
Once a haunt of bikers in black tee-shirts, colour is the adjective for this lively terrace tapas bar restaurant. Seats and tables made out of bicycle parts first grab the attention, and friendly service lures you atto this place at the start of the new look promenade. Gift shop and karaoke within, but a glass of sangria a few tapas dishes and its a great outdoor place to begin or endyour evening at the resort. Main courses not as much fun as the nibbly stuff, but great vibe.
Port de Plaisance, Marseillan Plage 4 [B2] 04 99 43 59 86
The secret weapon in the making over of Marseillan Plage's pleasure port: Just by the hotel Richmont, the former Capitainerie has been turned into a beach bar and panoramic terrace. Eat on the roof (braving the windiest afternoons) or find a sheltered table on a ground floor deck next to the sands of the Plage d'Honneur. Have a drink at the bar or go for crepes and generous pizzas during the day. Mediterranean brunch and luch menu from €20 is popular and evening meals slightly higher in price, but good value. Kids eat for €8. Food is fresh and flavoursome, service lovely. Popular with locals in shoulder season. The team served time at the Glaciere in Marseillan proper so they certainly know their stuff. Fresh fish delicious. Open from around Eastertide until late September
Moules et Cie
25-27 av de la Méditerranée 4 [A2]
The team behind La Pizzetta round the corner (see page 278) launched the latest moules-friterie with classic menus from €11.50. Opens end May til September.
Please phone to check that restaurants away from Marseillan are open before travelling. I keep an eye on changes in arseillan, but canot get round the entire region each season - so a bit on online research worth while before hitting the road beyond the village.
Universal Marseillan Wifi service available throughout the village, port, Tabarka and Marseillan Plage. 20 minutes/day free connection per person (register with your email) with 24/7 upgrades at €3 for one day, €4 for 3 days, €7 for a week or €10 for 15 days. Upgraded service uses PayPal. If you do not have a computer or internet device, then there are computers available to use at the tourist office, Marseillan Plage.
Good strong free Wifi (ask barman/waiter for code) available at the Marine Bar [Page 138] in the centre of the village.
Vet - new branch in season at Marseillan Plage on in the Espace Phocea 4 [A2] 04 67 37 76 33 (out of hours service 04 67 01 29 22)
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Tour Thau Now the new cycle route around the Etang is almost complete, and following Marseillan's triumphal role in the Tour de France, the first weekend in June sees an annual cycle trip around the lagoon. Leaving the port on a 53km ride around the lagoon, via Meze, Bouzigues, Balaruc and Sete and ending with a party and lunch at Marseillan Plage. Anyone can sign up and join in. €6 includes food at the finishing line.
Chambres d’Andréa 36 bd Pasteur 04 67 11 26 37www.leschambresdandrea.fr  C2 New B&B from from Stéphanie and Philippe of Maison Camille créperie (page 261).
La Casa Occitane, 23 bd Lamartine 04 67 90 51 09 www.lacasaoccitane.com 1 [B2]
Latest boutique B&B grand townhouse with swimming pool and option of Table d'Hote dinners from an experienced chef.
Hotel Le Boulevard is now closed. The building is being converted to upmarket serviced holiday flats. Part of the development of the quarter as an upmarket dining area. Even the face downstairs has had a facelift. The restaurant re-opened in 2014 (see above).
ADR immobilier has moved from the church square and is now at 21-23 place du Théâtre, 04 67 77 71 07 www.adr-immosud.com 2 [B2]
JP on the port is now the Belem bar
Style Immobilier is now Agencima www.agencima.fr
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The Gare Routiere has moved from the centre of the village to the edge of the port. The new bus stop is on the corner of av de la Marine with place du Theatre, next to square 8 Mai 1945 2 [A2]. Be aware that during off-season roadworks and building projects in and around the port, the terminus may move further into the village or up to avenue Chassefiere. So check notices at bus stops.
In summer Line 15 links the port to the beaches, the full all-day timetable starting in early May and continuing well into September. New for 2016: A reduced rersion of the bus service now runs all year round, with an alternaitve off season timetable when you should phone and book your bus in advance. Several stops (including the port - but bizarrely NOT Sete Station) are wheelchair accessible. As this bus route is run by a different company, you will need a different carnet of tickets (at 8 euros for 10 tickets.)
Airport shuttle meets every flight from the stop by the shady park 11 Novembre 1918..
Bus ticket prices have risen to €1.60 per journey. But the Carnet (for this route and the regular 210 service to Agde and Beziers centre) remains even better value at €10 for 10 journeys
Taxi GT now has a website www.taxi-gt-marseillan.fr and the driver speaks English
Bat'Thau Loc (see above, page 57) rents bikes by the hour, day or week at €14 per day, €36 for 3 days and €70 per week (but closed frommid-September). Artimon are still renting cycles on the opposite bank (quai Toulon) at €12 per day, €20 for 3 days and €49 per week. And weekly rates are often even lower at the Marseillan Plage outlets. Crystys charge €8 per day and Denis Locations delivers bikes to your holiday home in Marseillan. Call 06 46 30 3293 for rates.
More details follow soon.
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